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offee-making is very much a ritual and to enjoy the very finest cup a meticulous technique serious attention to detail and studied appreciation of the drink is essential. The Turkish restaurant Kilikyas in St Katharine Docks delivers its coffee according to the established traditions and serves it with a delicate piece of Turkish Delight. The coffee beans must be freshly roasted and then well ground into the finest powder possible far more finely ground than for any other kind of coffee making technique. The coffee grounds are immersed in hot but not boiling water and stay there long enough for the flavour to be released. Over-boiling or cooking the coffee will give a burnt taste. Sugar can be added and gently stirred until it dissolves but this must be done carefully so as not to disturb the foam. As the coffee comes to the boil the pot is removed from the heat but may be returned two or three times until it is poured into the cups. The real sign of the coffee makers skill is the quality and quantity of foam on the surface of the coffee once it is poured which can be maximised by the way it is poured lifting and lowering the pot as the liquid fills the cup. But coffee in Turkey is often more than just a daily drink as serious as that may be. Before a wedding the bridegrooms parents visit the brides family to ask the hand of the bride and the parents blessing. The bride must prepare the coffee and may to test the grooms character and possibly his humour serve the grooms coffee with salt instead of sugar. Both of the young couple are being tested in this ritual for their compatibility etiquette and suitability. Personally I would recommend avoiding the salt and sticking with the jelly sweetness of Turkish Delight lightly dusted with icing sugar they way Kilikyas do it. KILIKYAS RESTAURANT St Katharine Docks London EC1 t 020 7488 0813 w TURKISH delights 3 Coffee The process is what makes a coffee Turkish not the source of the bean or equipment used by Owen Rice the real sign of the coffee makers skill is the quality and quantity of foam on the surface of the coffee Coffee Served at Kilikyas St Katharine Docks THE RIVER SPRING 2016 FOOD DRINK 11 The Blue Bottle Coffee House painted c1900