SEDUCED by Seville

although Seville is both the capital of Andalusia and the second hottest city in Europe, the most likely reaction you’ll receive when mentioning the name of this mesmerising city is: “…as in the oranges?” It is a city of many influences, and to walk the streets of Seville is a unique experience: your senses constantly barraged with the overwhelming perfume of orange blossom – interrupted only by the salty-sweet scent of tapas – and the undulating tones of Spanish guitar.

A city renowned for its architecture, particular must-sees include the intricately tiled Moorish fort of The Alcazar, and the Plaza de Espana. Climb up to the balconies of this open-air building to admire the surrounding Parque de María Luisa, here you can watch couples boat down the Venetian-style canals, children having their communion photographs taken, and a few of Seville’s thousand horse-drawn carriages trot past.

To take a horse and cart around Seville is one way to see the sights in quick succession, however if you’d rather be your own tour guide then eschew the pricey in favour of the economical and take a bike tour. This is a quirky way to travel through the Parque, whose botanical gardens are home to white doves and albino peacocks, and many more faux art deco buildings.

It would be a crime to miss out the Giralda tower of the Cathedral. Trudge up 35 horse-ramps to the topmost minaret and look out at the entire cityscape, up to the broad Guadalquivir river and across to the famed bullring, down to the golden grids of the Alcazar walls and over to the labyrinthine streets of the old town.

“The overwhelming perfume of orange blossom, interrupted only at lunchtime by the salty-sweet scent of tapas

The old town of Santa Cruz is the place to go for tapas; rather than follow a guidebook, follow your nose. Seek out Hotel de Venerables to taste the best tortilla in the city; or turn your back on the centre of town and take a few steps up Mateos Gagos street. Here your view of Giralda may be a little hazy, but the bodegas are purse-friendly and exceptional – and anyway, after a few glasses of Tinto de Verano, even the clearest of views would begin to blur.

The residents of Seville wake late, siesta, eat late and party even later. So, after dining, it’s time to drink and dance! Seville is the home of flamenco, and to get into the true spirit of things, the Caboneria – an old coalhouse transformed into the home of amateur flamenco – is uncontested.

They say that flamenco is a gift, and if the haunting tones of cante singing, the violent metal-on-wood clash of the baile dance, and the ripples of the toque guitar stir deep emotions within you, then you have the gift. The power of this frenzied dance to move is astounding; something that the raw surroundings of the Caboneria serve to amplify.

Seville is not suited to a speedy city-break; its rich landscape should be uncovered at the relaxed pace of the locals. For those looking to indulge entirely, there is the Arabic bathhouse, Baños Arabes: worth the extravagance and certain to have your eyes rolling even after you’ve arrived home.

For a city-break which is more sensual experience than sight- seeing trek, visit Seville and enjoy waking up to orange blossom and the faint tinkle of Spanish guitars and going to bed to the same – only a little fuller, fuzzier and utterly unwound.

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