an irrepressible PAST

The RIVER Magazine talks to Nick Crispini about finding his way back to what he does best

it was not so many moons ago, when Bermondsey Square was changing from little more than a car park full of pot holes, that Nick Crispini began thinking about returning to the restaurant business.

Several years before, Bermondsey Street and Long Lane were an extension of the antiques area and number 214 Bermondsey Street housed up to one hundred traders dealing in furniture and jewellery across several floors.

It was an unusual path that Nick had taken from a family business in Guernsey, with five restaurants to London as a digital designer and then back into the restaurant business. When he did though it was no longer working front of house like he had for his parents, but as a professional in the kitchen.

Antico Restaurant London Bermondsey Sreet Chef Table
“It was as I approached 30 years old I started to think to myself, ‘Why don’t I just do what
I’ve been talking about for the last five years and start my own restaurant?’ So I enrolled at the Leiths School of Food and Wine.”

Nick made an important contact at this time, Michael Palij MW, an expert of Italian wines who lectured at Leiths on the wines from Italy. The first part of the jigsaw was now in place: great wines.

“After qualifying, I worked with the inspirational Theo Randall. That’s where I met Nicholas Schizas.” The two young chefs struck up a friendship and it wasn’t long before they were planning a restaurant together. The next key ingredient had slotted into place: great food.

All they needed now was the place.

“I like to use local references, it’s the easiest way to be inspired

214 Bermondsey Street was derelict. An antique in itself, it was very much in need of restoration and new life breathing into it. The area was changing rapidly and the right premises had become available. Nick seized the opportunity.

Converting the almost falling down building into an immaculate restaurant and basement bar for cocktails and live music, he drew on its former use and called his place ‘Antico’.

He opened in January of 2012 and immediately began serving fresh homemade pastas and other exquisite dishes with fantastic wine combinations. It was no surprise that the locals instantly loved it and it packed out every evening with a bustling young professional crowd enjoying a well-crafted and affordably-priced menu.

“I’ve always loved the buzz of restaurants and my favourite food is often the simplest dishes like pasta with tomato and basil or even with just parmesan and butter.”

Nick makes it sound so easy, but his food raises the bar of modern Italian cuisine.

Antico Restaurant London Bermondsey Sreet Pasta Cheese
“Without doubt one of our signature dishes is our ragu or the Burrata (a soft cream fresh cheese from Puglia) which, on the current menu, is complemented
by a salty prosciutto and sweet black fig garnish.”

Nick’s journey ‘back home’ to the business and classic Italian dishes may have been circuitous, but anyone who has eaten at Antico will be glad that even if some things change, a connection to the past always remains.

ANTICO RESTAURANT & BAR
214 Bermondsey Street
SE1 3TQ
t: 020 7407 4682
w: www.antico-london.co.uk

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